Mens Designer Jeans

I've made a few pairs of jeans for me but this was my first attempt at making a pair of denim jeans for my husband.

The good news is he agreed to model them for my blog so you get to see him wearing them.

He is over 6ft tall and finds buying the leg length he needs quite difficult unless you want to spend a fortune [which he doesn't].

I had this heavy weight denim in  my stash and I can't remember where I bought it exactly as it's been there for quite a while.

He's quite a plain dresser and didn't want anything fancy on the back pockets so I just copied the design from a pair he already owns.

I'm quite surprised he opted for the gold top stitching but I'm pleased the way it looks as a finished garment. I actually used the ordinary thread double through the needle while the bobbin was just single. This is a super easy trick if you don't have top stitching thread in the right colour.

I did however have enormous battles with my sewing machines especially getting the several layers of fabric to stitch properly over the belt loops on the waistband. The thread kept breaking or the stitching just went completely loopy and I must admit to the occasional bad language to vent my frustration but as I was alone in my sewing room, no-one heard me.

I changed the needle [a jeans needle] three times, re-threaded about 50 times and even tried using my older workhorse machine but nothing worked for long. Having watched the machine very closely and going as slowly as possible the thread always seemed to break at the needle yet there wasn't any undue tension or bumps on the thread and I tried different threads to see if that was the issue but it didn't seem to be.

Eventually I changed the needle for a used Stretch that was supplied with my machine and at last it behaved properly. I also found a trick to get over the really thick places by using the spacer that came with my Husqvarna Viking Ruby to jump the foot smoothly over the fattest bits. What I discovered was that the cheap jeans needles that I got from Lidl's recently were the problem They just didn't fit perfectly. Lesson learned.

These jeans were drafted using my SFD Pants Pattern but with the modifications in the special leaflet from Glenda. This worked well and I did make a muslin first to check.

I used pieces of fabric I recycled from one of his Dad's shirts for the pocket bags to remind him of his father.

Would I make another pair? I feel a bit exhausted right now and can't wait to get back to some selfish sewing with easier fabrics to work with but after a while if this pair proves comfortable and he asks me nicely, I might.

I've actually booked a service for both my sewing machines next week as I think they deserve a bit of TLC don't you?

Next time are some T-shirts I made but haven't got to blog about yet and a fleece for my holiday next month. [It's super lightweight so will not take up much of our luggage allowance.]

My second Tailored Jacket

I had to prove I could really do it so although making my first jacket was a goal achieved, could I do it again? That was my immediate reaction.

I looked in my stash and found a lovely blue winter weight check that I had initially bought to make my husband a shirt. He didn't like the colour!! He has blue eyes and it would have been fabulous on him but he prefers dull browns so it stayed in my stash until....

It actually looks a lot brighter and better than the picture shows.

I decided this second jacket would be more casual than the suit jacket so this blue plaid would work well enough, I just had to interface every piece to give the fabric a bit of extra structure.

I have a book called 'Make Your Own Clothes' and there is a shawl collared jacket at the very back that would be perfect. The book comes with its own software which allows you to input your own measurements, decide how much seam allowance you want and then print out the pattern on A4 sheets.

I measured the result against my own body sloper and it seemed to be pretty much on target so I used it to make a muslin first and that fitted perfectly so I went ahead with the fabric.

The method I used from the suit jacket pattern by Palmer/Pletsch for the welt pockets was so easy that I followed the same instructions on this jacket but decided to leave out the flap this time. They turned out very well and I've now conquered my fear of welts.

The collar was more tricky even though it should have been easier being a shawl collar. The instructions for this part of the jacket were totally non existent in the book and the pattern pieces just didn't seem to go together at all. I cobbled it as best I could and it looks fine but I'm not sure I did what I was supposed to.

The jacket is lined in a lovely sky blue satin which makes it feel really luxurious when wearing and especially when putting it on or taking it off.

This will definitely be in my holiday suitcase as a jacket to wear with jeans or trousers when dining out for a slightly less casual / holiday outfit.

I have added some temporary black buttons but I don't think they're right so I'm looking for something better.

I have already finished 3 stretch T-Shirt tops to go with the jackets and I shall blog about them very soon.

My first fitted tailored jacket with matching trousers

Wow, I've done it - I've actually made a lined, tailored jacket that fits me.

But first the matching trousers. As you see here in the photos the trousers are the same as many others I've made from my SFD pants body blueprint but the idea to embroider the left leg was to match the jacket.

Here is a close up of the left leg where the embroidery is larger than the lapel design because the larger wouldn't fit on the lapel and the smaller one was so small it looked silly on the leg.

A close up of the right lapel which has two plastic jewels to add a little shine. I wanted something to make this trouser suit unique and to add a designer touch without over cooking it. My desired aim was to have a piece that looked more like a brooch and I think this has been achieved.

The jacket was based around McCall's 8638 a Palmer/Pletsch very old pattern I have had for ages labelled as the 'no fail jacket'. The only problem were the 70s style of shoulders which were way too large and had to be trimmed back to match my SFD body blueprint. The front dart and apex position were also a long way from mine but it was easy to reposition them using SFD.

The instructions were mostly straightforward although having basted the centre lining pleat as directed they never explained when or even if they should be removed!! Strange.

The welt pockets however were a lot easier than I imagined and I would certainly use this method when I next do welts. I am so confident having made them this way that I will not be as terrified when facing this particular feature again.

And now for the short video showing the jacket itself with the smaller version of the embroidery on the right lapel. There is no sound on this video. The pink shirt I am wearing was one I made nearly two years ago so not a recent make.

I am just so pleased with the fit and look of this suit but I haven't even told you the best bit.... I bought this medium weight, inky navy blue suiting fabric from one of my trusted sellers on eBay. I had intended it was going to be a muslin or practice jacket but actually as I put more effort into it, sleeve heads, shoulder pads, the lapel design etc I realised it was perfectly wearable and hence went on to make the matching trousers. I bought 4 metres and have used just about three [enough left over for a possible waiscoat!!] and the cost - £4.00. Yes the whole 4 metres was £4.00 and OK the postage was an extra £3.15 and adding lining, thread and buttons etc the total outfit probably cost a staggering £9.50. Now that's what I call a result.

Now I really must start making my lightweight capsule wardrobe for Australia - just over two months to go and then I'll start blogging about our trip on the Australian Adventure Tab if you'd like to follow along.

Thank you for reading my blog.

Pin stripe trousers and peacock feathers

Welcome!

I am today showing you my latest pair of 'smart' trousers and a blouse I made a few weeks back that I never got round to blogging about.

I bought the trouser fabric recently while on a trip with friends to Winchester. C&H always have a loaded remnant table which is well worth sorting through. I picked up this 1.5 metres of beautiful and unusual pin stripe suiting for just £11.28. It's a medium weight and feels like wool but it handled well and didn't shrink in the prewash. It holds a crease and is soft and warm to wear, ideal for the winter months.

I faced the pockets with fabric and made the pockets from some scrap cotton that was once a duvet cover!

I decided I'd made several pairs of trousers from my original SFD Pants Sloper and it was beginning to look decidedly worn. I thought since my Fit and Sew Retreat a couple of months ago that perhaps it was time to re-evaluate  and redraw a new body blueprint. When I finished I was delighted to see how close the old and new actually were.

I must admit the photos don't do justice to these trousers as I tried to get the camera to focus on my lower half I realise I have tilted the tripod which makes my legs look a lot shorter than they are [I'm 5ft 7in] and the angle has made them look less flattering than in reality.

I am very happy with the fit and feel and have already worn them to a Christmas Function which drew some nice comments that are always a bonus.

I had the peacock feather fabric in my stash for some time and I can't remember where I bought it although it was probably in Nazare, Portugal during our spring trip to the area. I remember falling in love with the print as soon as I saw it and then couldn't quite make up my mind how best to use it.

I eventually made this soft shirt with a faux tie using a pattern I self drafted and made previously here. 

Although the design I created uses a yoke I tried to match the back so that the design was consistent. 

Here are some photos of the pieces I drafted that make up these trousers. You will also see how I store them in a plastic folder with a piece of fabric to remind me how I used them.

My future projects will focus around our next big adventure. We're off to Australia in Spring 2017 so I need to make a lightweight capsule wardrobe that will travel well. Any ideas?

Safari Jacket

Anyone who has the SFD Shirt Kit will hopefully recognize this jacket from the front cover.

A few slight changes but in essence I have used Glenda's design to make my Safari Jacket.

I'm really delighted with the result although I have used  a medium to heavy denim [described as Elephant Colour by my friend, which I though was appropriate for a Safari] that makes it quite heavy and certainly wouldn't be the best to wear in a hot climate.

However, it's perfect for the UK especially as we're heading swiftly towards Winter. 

I love the design elements, the pleated pockets, the edge stitching and the fact I found buttons to exactly match a buckle I had in my stash.

This jacket is fully lined in a light grey polyester fabric I had already and the denim was purchased during my recent visit to The Fabric Godmother in Hove when they had an open day.

The lighting in my sewing room isn't the best for taking photos and these were taken late at night with my little tablet so not the best but I hope you get the idea.

I haven't blogged for a while but I have been sewing. I made a shirt for my husband's birthday in the middle of November but so far he hasn't worn it so no photos and I went on an SFD Fit & Sew Retreat in the UK so lots to report on that adventure in my next blog.

What I will say here is that I wish I'd been three years ago when I first started sewing. If anyone in the UK is new to SFD, PLEASE go on one of Judith's Retreats, you will learn loads and it'll make the system so simple from the beginning.

Fleece Jacket that doesn't deserve a Blog

Looking back over the last three years of my sewing journey and I can see I've made huge improvements but the fact is that lately I seem to have regressed and fallen foul of mistakes I shouldn't be making any more.

How can this happen?

I made a new fleece jacket to wear through Autumn and Winter. Having made a few fleeces before I was confident of success this time and although I really need to make a proper winter coat, I haven't reached that level of construction yet so this would be an easy make - Yes?

I bought this fabric back in August whilst we were up in the Lake District for a Family Gathering. While my husband and a friend wanted to walk all day up on some faraway mountain ridge, I opted for the far more favourable pastime of fabric shopping in Penrith, Cumbria. I had visited Just Sew during a previous visit so knew exactly where to head. I bought this super soft polar fleece which although a bit 'in your face' contained the light turquoise and purple tones that are in my favourite palette.

The cutting out to my well tried and fitted pattern went well and starting the sewing was no problem either. Then I got to the zip. I'd learned from the original Craftsy Class I bought some time back that the secret for inserting the open ended zip was to use double sided tape to place it in position before sewing. I had done this previously and it worked like a dream but NOT this time.

I must have used a different tape before because no matter how many times I changed the needle on my machine, the stickiness of the glue attached itself to the needle and gummed up everything stopping the stitch from being created. I changed needles, I tried cleaning the needle with a cotton pad soaked in degreaser every time it was in the up position and I even tried my old Janome workhorse machine to see if it would work without fuss. Nothing I did made any difference. The tape was so well stuck I couldn't remove it to start again so it was without doubt the worst effort to produce a wearable garment since I began sewing.

I ended up hand topstitching which was like trying to push a needle through a lump of concrete.

I am so NOT proud of this but at least the photos show how snuggly comfortable the jacket is. I think Tesco's is probably the only place likely to see me wearing it out so if you spot me [and with that fabric why wouldn't you?] please don't come too close as the stitching is unforgivable.

 

I love the casual wearability of a fleece jacket and I will make this versatile pattern again but next time I will use a tiny bit of stick gum in strategic places [across the yoke join to ensure it matches exactly] and hand sew a basting stitch instead to position the zip.

 









So now to choose another fleece fabric. I found this woodland scene fleece on the Just Sew website at £6.00 per metre. Hmmm not too sure about it??? What do you think?

Tunics - What a super garment!

Back in May I pre-ordered a book called The Tunic Bible written by one of my favourite sewing bloggers, Sarah Gunn [Goodbye Valentino] and her colleague Julie Starr. It arrived last week a day after my visit to Goldhawk Road. I did buy some fabric whilst we were there with a tunic in mind knowing the arrival was imminent. Since I requested the book nearly six months ago I've noticed a distinct growing trend in this versatile garment both in the shops and with pattern makers so I couldn't wait to join in.

My excitement grew as the publishing date arrived and several bloggers were asked to give their opinion on the book. They were nearly all very favourable and I waited in keen anticipation for the postman to deliver my copy. One slightly negative but honest comment I read was that it may not be a book for absolute beginners due to the lack of step-by-step instructions despite the design being simple and straightforward. Having now made my first attempt [actually it was second if you count the muslin] I totally agree with what had been said. However I think the benefit of this book is the inspiration for mixing and matching necklines, sleeves, collars, hem lengths and trims to create a totally unique top each time. It is crammed full of ideas and examples along with the basic pattern but the design belongs to you, the creator.

I decided on a lilac cotton lace with a scalloped border which brought about its own challenges. Firstly, with no hems to the body or sleeves I had to work out the lengths exactly so that the scallops were at the correct position - no room for error.

After tracing off the pattern I made adjustments to the dart position by inserting a 3cm strip above the bustline [on back and front] which then also put my waistline into the correct place. I made a muslin out of an old sheet and it fitted me fine just pulling it over my head without the need for a side zip which is a suggested option in the book. Having pre-washed the lace fabric I cut out and then started to make up the finished tunic. I began with the neckline and trim, then I made and joined the collar. All fine so far. 

Then I added the first sleeve successfully so used my overlocker to serge the seam and then took a closer look to inspect my work. I couldn't believe what I found - a large flaw right in the centre of the sleeve. There was no way round this other than to remove the sleeve and start again. Luckily I just had enough fabric left over to cut another sleeve but then had to sew it in with the back and front armscye having already been trimmed by the serging!

Yet another challenge was adding the ribbon which had to be added to the 'V' neckline in two pieces so that the little hearts were both pointing in the same direction. Just a small detail but these are the things that make it more professional. I then added ribbon to the side slits to match the neckline and collar and I'm pleased with the result. 

I do think that I might add a bit more ease across my back shoulders next time though as it is quite snug there which didn't seem apparent in the muslin.

A tunic is a brilliant shape as it suits all figure types and covers many an issue whilst still being flattering and feminine. I can quite understand why it has gained so much popularity.

 So here it is, my finished tunic but not my last. I have plans for one or two more so watch out for the blogs. However I will inspect the fabric more closely next time before cutting out - Another lesson learned!!

I have made many mistakes on my sewing journey and I always get annoyed at having to undo bits after construction but finding a fault in the fabric was a bitter blow and I nearly threw the whole thing in the bin.

Let me know if this has ever happened to you, I'd love to know I'm not the only one.