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Wednesday, 29 October 2014

Top to go with the navy trousers

Having made a comfortable pair of navy trousers I realised I had nothing that really went with them in my wardrobe. So searching in my stash I found some fabric that had a lovely drape and a navy background to the flowery pattern. I normally don't go for flowers but the colours in this were very pretty so I made a simple Burda top with a mandarin collar and narrow ribbon ties that I'd made successfully before.

Believe it or not the hardest part to make was attaching the heart shaped buttons at the ends of the tie. I put two back-to-back and sewed through both together until I was ready to finish when I realised I couldn't get the needle and thread between the two buttons. I ended up struggling with two crochet hooks until I managed to pull the thread between them to tie off. They do however match the buttons on the cuffs although they don't show in the photo.
I like full sleeves but I think these might have been better a little shorter. It's amazing what the camera sees that I wished I'd noticed while I was making it.

Sunday, 19 October 2014

Navy Trousers - the best fit ever

I've just finished the best fitting trousers I've ever made [or worn!!].

I owe it all to three things

1. Sure-fit Designs pants sloper made to my measurements
2. Making several pairs already where I've noted different issues that need to change plus I made a muslin.
3. Hints and tips from 'Pants for Real People' by Patti Palmer and Marta Alto. This book was great and could possibly have made some of my previous pairs less issue ridden. I especially liked fitting the trousers [pants] before attaching the waistband then marking the seam lines on both as well as the desired actual waistline. This certainly put the waistband in the correct place at last!!!

Here are the photos during construction.
 The fronts with fly zip and side slant pockets completed.
 The fly zip inside.
 My home made fly zip template for marking the front stitching line. I use a sliver of soap to mark it which is easy dissolved after stitching.
 Inside the fronts. I used lining fabric for the pocket lining and the main fabric for the pocket bag was extended to the fly seams to add a bit of secret tummy tuck support!!
 These photos show the nearly finished trousers although there are still pins in the hem and front fastening as I needed to see where to put the hem for wearing small heels.
 I love the side slant pockets, they seem to flatter the shape.
 Side seams are straight and bum doesn't look too big!!
 I made these a bootleg shape but I think I could have been braver and made them a little tighter at the knee before the flare.

The rear view - what can I say? The trousers are now hemmed using a blind stitch hem which I love doing on my machine as it doesn't show at all if you use the correct thread shade.and the hooks and fastenings are in the right place. These are really comfortable to wear and I shall now be making more.

Have you struggled to get the right fit for trousers?

Friday, 10 October 2014

Burda shirt second try

Today I want to show you my latest attempt at perfecting the Burda Shirt I first made in a deep pink some time ago. Whilst the pink shirt looked OK it didn't feel quite right. The shoulders didn't sit on my shoulder line properly and the back needed a bit of ease to allow me to stretch forward without it pulling tight so....
Here is the shirt with a re-worked shoulder seam, rolling it to the front more on the sleeve edge and adjusting the back seams to match. I've also added ease across the back yoke although I didn't take a picture of this during construction.
This picture shows the second sleeve, collar and upper collar ready for fitting and the sleeve cuff which has been interfaced and pressed.

I didn't have enough of either fabric to complete the garment in one type but by creating a jigsaw of the pieces I think it's come together quite well. I think it might have been better if I'd had enough of the sleeve fabric to also do the front yoke attachments instead of using the opposite grain line but hindsight is a wonderful thing!
 And so to the finished shirt - front view and ...
... back view. Overall I am very happy with how this shirt feels and the modification has worked well.

The saying that 'practice makes perfect' is so true in sewing as each time it gets a bit better and a bit easier. I really feel that I am making progress - here's hoping it continues.